Izmir, Turkey

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position on the western coast of Asia Minor in the splendid Gulf of Izmir (Izmir Körfezi), which forms one of the finest bays in the Aegean region. The inner bay lies at the heart of this rapidly expanding city, which extends for 30km/19mi along the coast and rises like an amphitheater up the slopes of Mount Pagus, dominated by the peaks of the Manisa Dagi range including Mount Sipylos (1,517m/4,977ft) and the Nif Dagi (1,510m/4,953ft).

The city itself has been destroyed many times, most recently by the great fire of 1922. Rebuilt in a modern style, few historic buildings remain, apart from the ancient agora. The city, nevertheless, welcomes many tourists who are visiting the eastern Mediterranean and offers an important base to students of ancient history.

The city, situated at a busy road and rail junction, owes its economic significance to an accessible port which serves as the main outlet for the produce of western Anatolia. Izmir is Turkey's financial center and also hosts international trade fairs including a year-round export fair. Over recent decades, however, the city has become a major industrial base for textiles, tobacco, food, paper, chemicals, tanning and of course for carpet- making (Smyrna Carpets). Izmir exports mainly tobacco, cotton, raisins, figs, olives and olive oil. The city is home to a university and a NATO command headquarters.

History

As early as 3000 B.C., a Trojan Yortan settlement was founded on the Tepekule at a site 3.5km/2mi north of the modern town. At the end of the 11th century B.C. Aeolian Greeks founded the colony of Smyrna whose name derives from the myrrh, a small tree which grows abundantly in the region. The town's fortifications which date from the 11th century B.C., are reckoned to be the oldest of any town founded by the Greeks. In the same century the Ionians were also colonizing the region and according to Herodotus Ionians from Kolophon occupied Smyrna. The Greek poet Homer whose birthplace is claimed by many towns is said to have written "The Iliad" here sometime between 750 and 725 B.C.

In the second half of the fourth century B.C. Alexander the Great instructed his general Lysimachos to build a citadel on top of Mount Pagus, 5km/3mi south of the former town. It was around the northwest foot of this mountain that the new Hellenistic town grew up. In the third and second century B.C. Smyrna flourished and, even under Roman rule (from 27 B.C.) the city continued to thrive. In the second century A.D. the port enjoyed another revival and the so-called "Golden Road", part of which has been preserved dates from this time.

In 1415 after centuries of fluctuating fortunes Smyrna became part of the Ottoman empire. Despite two destructive earthquakes (1688 and 1778) and two major fires (1840 and 1845) in the 19th century Smyrna maintained its position as one of the most prosperous cities of the Ottoman empire.

Reconstruction after 1922

During the Greek-Turkish war of 1919 Smyrna was occupied by Greek troops. The Treaty of Sèvres (1920) awarded the city to Greece but not for long. In 1922, after Kemal Pasa had reconquered the city for the Turks, the rich, northern part of the city which had been occupied by Franks, Greeks and Armenians was set on fire.

The reconstruction of the city and the resettlement of the Greeks presented new challenges. Wide boulevards with green open spaces were built and lined by modern buildings. One part of the city destroyed by the fire is now the Culture Park, home also to the Izmir International Fair. New industrial zones were built in the north, while large residential areas have been developed along the bay's coastline to the southwest of the city and also on the northern side of the Gulf.